Rebuilding the front suspension & steering linkage

After rebuilding the rear suspension and seeing what the rubbers from the springs and shackles looked like. It was obvious that the front suspension and steering linkage had to be rebuild as well. Maybe not the steering linkage, but if you remove the upper and lower control arms, you have to disconnect the steering linkage anyway, so why not doing a complete rebuild?
So with that in mind, I've gathered all information I could find on the internet and bought all hardware and tools necessary for the job.

Some tips & tricks

Tie rod info:
left handed threads on the inside,(remember "left in") right handed thread outside, leave about 1/4" thread showing on both sides. (left is counter clockwise)

Torsion bar dust boots:
use some "muscle", shouldn't take you more than :30 per side!, I've installed 100's!, just get one corner on the torsion bar through,and pull like crazy and twist at the same time, don't be afraid to use force,you can use a dab of grease, I've NEVER had to heat them up,I know it seems impossible but they will go on with enough force.

Torsion bar removal:
When I first started working on mopars I was a little scared of torsions. But they are really easy. Get the car jacked up and all of the weight off of the control arms. When you back off the torsion bar adjustment nut you have all the tension off torsion bars. Loosen up the nut on the lower control arm untill it's almost off. Make sure you take off the clips at the rear of the torsion bars at the cross member. Take the bolt off the strut rod at the lower control arm. Usually you can put a crowbar between the lower control arm and k member and pry the torsion bar out. It sounds like a lot but it really isn't. Just don't hit the torsion bar with a hammer.

Don't need a torsion bar removal tool
If you're removing the complete lower control arm, there is no need for a special tool to remove the torsion bar. just remove the lower control-arm pivot-shaft nut where the shaft goes through the K-member, and then use a large pry-bar to wedge the lower control arm back. The torsion bar will slide back with the arm, and out of the socket at the rear crossmember. The control arm can then be tapped forward and off the bar.

Remove the lower control arm bushing sleeve
For the lower you can press the shaft out through the torsion bar side but ultimately you will be stuck with the outer sleeve of the bushing in the control arm. To deal with this try running some weld beads on the inside of the sleeve to shrink it or drop a thick washer in the hole and fold over the material to capture it. Then just press it out through the hole from the torsion bar side.

Something about LCA & UCA bushings
They fail also because they should be installed loose, set the weight on the tires and then tighten the bushings.....
If the rubber is tightened while the weight is off the front end, when you set it down, the rubber will twist up inside the metal shell.

Some links:
Torsion bars scare me!
Rent/Barrow a torsion bar removal tool.
Ball Joint Tool.
Cam bolts/Torsion bar re-installation